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NO FITTING. 



NO ALTERING. 



TAILOR SYSTEM 



OF 



1 DRESS CUTTING, 

BY PROF. D. I. LEVIS, 




87 High Street ', 



CHICAGO, ILLS. 



AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE. 



■s. ; 




MQJJ1WQ, MJilLifM, 

THE PARISIAN 

TAILOR SYSTEM 



OF 



DRESS CUTTING, 
I 

BY PROF. D. I. LEV IS, 

87 High Street, 

CHICAGO, ILLS. 



AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE, 




V 



Entered according to act of Congress in the y<-ar 189 ) by PROF. D. I. 
LEV18 in the office of Librarian of Congress, at Washington. D. C. 




Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 



HOW TO TAKE MEASURES. 

You must be very careful in taking measures as your entire results 
depend on your measures ; if you make a mistake in taking your 
measure you will not make a perfect fit. But this is easily and cor- 
rectly done by practicing. 

i. Have the person stand with their back towards you in an easy, 
natural position. Take the Bust, over the fullest part of Bust as 
tight as you wish dress to fit. 

2. Waist. Around smallest part of Waist and very tight. 

3. Neck. Smooth above the collar, snug but not to choke. 

4. Arms' Eye. This is one of the most important measures and 
must be taken correctly, or you will have trouble with your Shoulders. 
Arm Eye is taken 1^ ins. below the point of Shoulder and so tight 
as to have the person say ouch. 

5. Shoulder. From a little back of full part of the Neck to the 
point of Shoulder, or as long as you wish Shoulder to be. 

6. Length of the Back. Tie a cord around the Waist and push it 
down all around except in front. Take the measure from the most 
prominent bone in the back of the Neck down to the bottom of the 
cord. Be careful you don't get too high up on the Neck. 

7. Length of Front. From the cord up to the Neck as high as 
you wish the dress. 

8. Length Under Arm. From cord up to the Arm pit. 

9. Hip. Six ins. below cord around Hip loose. 

10. Width of Back. From Arm pit to Arm pit. Be careful not 
to get this measure too wide, and set down only one half of this 
amount. 

11. Width of Front is the difference between Width of Back and 
y 2 Bust Measure. (For example: Width of Back 6y 2 ; j4 Bust 18; 
Width of Front 11^ ins.) 

12. Take Arm to Elbow Measure" from point of shoulder to 
Elbow while Arm is bent to Front Breast. 

13. With Arm still in this position, take Arm Measure from point 
of Shoulder to Wrist, or length as you wish sleeve. 

14. Take Elbow Measure as you wish sleeve to fit at Elbow. 

15. Take Hand Measure closely around largest part of hand. 

16. Take Front Skirt Measure from Waist cord down the length 
you wish Skirt. 

17. Take Back Skirt Measure from Waist cord down the length 
you wish Skirt in the Back. 

CHILDREN'S MEASURE. 

Take children's measure same as adults, except Bust and Waist, 
which must be taken very loose, just as you wish garm ent to fit. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 




PRACTICING MEASURES. 



Bust, 


36. 


Hip, 


44 


Waist, 


24. 


Width of Back, 


634 


Neck, 


12. 


Width of Front, 


ii% 


Shoulder, 


6. 


Arm to Elbow, 


J 4 


Arms' Eye, 


IT. 


Arm, 


22 


Back, 


l6. 


Elbow, 


ipj4 


Front, 


14. 


Hand, 


8 


Under Arm, 


8. 


Skirt, 


40 



DRAFTING BACK. 



Lesson No. i. 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2 as shown in cut. Make a dot on line 1 
3*4 ins. below line 2. Another the length of Back below line 2 and 
draw lines 3 and 4, as shown in cut. 

2. Now place the square corner of square at junctions of lines 1 
and 4 with short end towards you and make a dot on line 4 }4 inch 
inside of line 1. Make another dot i}4 inches, another 2 inches 
and another dot at Waist measure, using back Waist figures. When 
Waist is less than 22 make a dot at 22. 

3. Now draw line 5 the Under Arm measure above line 4, and the 
Width of Back from line 1. And draw lines 6 and 7 as shown incut. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 



5 




Lesson No. 2. 

1. With the curvatures small end towards you place the L point 
at junctions of lines 1 and 2 and make a dot on line 2 at Neck meas- 
ure using Back Neck figures. 

Place the P point at dot just made and the 7 inch mark on line 3 
and draw line 8 to Shoulder measure. With small end up place the 
Arms Eye measure in back Arm Shape at the end of line 8, and the O 
point on line 6, draw line 9. Make a dot on line 9 at Arm Eye meas- 
ure using small figure in the same curve. Place the C point at dot 
just made and draw line 10, as shown in cut, place the Y point at 
junctions of lines 5 and 10 and draw line n as shown in cut. 

2. With square make a dot on line 1 6 inches below line 4. 
Make another 2 inches inside of this dot, and another 4 measure 
more than Waist measure, using back Waist figures, and draw lines 
12, 13, 14 and 15, as shown in cut. 



TRACING FRONT. 

1. Lay lining as for Back Trace line 11 from line 1 to 9 up line 9 
to 12, up 12 lo 5, up 5 to 4, down line 4, 26 and 1 down 24 and 15, 
19, 13, 18, 20, 14, 16, 17, 21 and 22. 

Remove draft, cut out, allow seams except Neck and Arm Eye. 
Replace draft for Under Arm gore. 



Trace line 7 from 9 to 8 up 
seam except Arm Eye. 



9, 12, down 23 and 25, cut out allow 



TRACING OUT BACK. 

1. Lay lining on a table double and tack drafting on the lining, 
First trace line 4 from line 10 to 7 up line 7 to 2, and line 2 to 8 
down line 8 to 10, down lines 10, 12 and 13, remove draft, cut out, 
allowing seams except at Neck and Arm Eye. 

2. Replace for side form 

Trace line 4 from 6 to 11 up lines 11, 6 and 9, down lines 14 and 
15, allow seam except Arm Eye. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting 




DRAFTING FRONT. 



Lesson No. 3. 



1. Draw line 1 and 2 as shown in cut. Make a dot on line 2 ac- 
cording to Neck measure, using Front Neck figures. Line 3 is drawn 
i~y 2 inches below line 2. 

2. With curvatures place the N point at dot on line 2 and neck 
measure on line 1, draw line 4, place the P point at same dot and 7 
inch mark in the same curve on line 3, and draw line 5 to the 
Shoulder measure. 

3. Now make a dot *4 of the Arms Eye measure below the end 
of line 5, and draw line 6 from line 1, square across this dot to the 
width of front. Line 7 is the Under Arm measure below line 6 and 
y 2 in. more than the width of front from 1. Draw line 8 as shown 
in cut. Place the square corner of square at the junctions of line 6 
and 8 and make a dot at Arms measure, using small Arms Eye fig- 
ure. Make a dot on line 7 in the same manner, inside line 8. Draw 
line 9 as shown in cut. Now make a dot on line 9 y? inch below 
line 6, another 3 inches. Make a dot on line 1 4 inches below line 
6. Make another on line 1 the Length of Front below lines 1 and 4. 
Draw lines 10 and 11 as in cut. 

Now measure line 6 in Back draft from line 4 up to line 9 and 
make a dot on line 8 in Front draft, the same distance above 7. 

4. With the curvatures small end up place the Arms Eye measure 
in front Arm, shape at dot on line 9 and draw line 12 to dot on line 
8 and around to the lowest end of line 5. Always keeping the Arms 
Eye measure on the dot while drawing line 12. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting, 




Lesson No. 4. 

1. To get the amount for darts add the width of the BacK and 
back Side Body to the width of the Front at waist line. Now sub- 
tract y 2 the Waist measure from this amount, the amount remain- 
ing is the amount for darts. Always make the Front dart ]/o inch 
larger than the Back one. 

2. Make a dot on line 11 2 inches from line 1, make another 
dot the size of Front darts from this dot. Make a dot 1 inch from 
this dot, make another dot the size of Back dart from this dot. Now 
make a dot in the center of each dart and draw lines 13 and 14, as 
shown in cut. Square the square on line 6. 

3. With the curvatures Y point face up draw lines 15 and 16 as 
in cut. Turn the face down and Y point chaw line 17 and 18 as 
shown in cut. 

4. With the square draw lines 19, 20, 21 and 22 to a 12 inch 
taper as shown in cut. 

5. Make a dot 6 inches below junctions of lines 7, 9 and 11 and 
\ x /z inches inside of line 9. Make another 3^ inches ouside of 
dot just made. 

4. Make a dot on line 1, 6 inches below line n. Now measure 
the Back draft from line 12 to 15, place this amount at last dot made 
and measure straight across and make a dot 2 inches less than x / 2 of 
the Hip measure. 

5. With the curvatures face down and the P point at junctions of 
lines 11 and 9 draw line 23. Turn face up, draw lines 24 and 2^ 
with P point. 

With square make a dot 2 inches above line 10 and % inch out- 
side of line 1, and draw r line 26 as shown in cut. 

The top part of line 26 may be drawn with the Y Point of curva- 
tures. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 




DRAFTING PLAIN SLEEVE. 



i. Draw lines i and 2, make dot Aon line 2 *4 in. less than y> of 
Arms' Eye, make dot B on line 1 2 ins. below line 2, draw line 3 as in 
cut. Make dot C on line 3, 1 in. less than y 2 of Arms' Eye. Make 
dot D 2 ]/ 2 in. outside of dot C. Make dot E on line 1 Arm to Elbow 
and draw line 4. Make dot F on line 4, 2 ins. from line r. Make 
dot G ij4 in. less than Elbow measure from F. Make dot H 3 ins. 
from G. Make dot J the Arm measure below line 2. Make K 1 in. 
more than y the hand from J. Make L 3 ins. inside of K. Make 
M 1 in. above J. Draw lines 6 and 7 as shown in cut. 

2. With curvatures place the E point at dot D and draw line 8 to 
A. Place the Arm Eye measure in front Arm shape at dot A and 
Arm Eye measure in Back Arm shape on line 1 and finish line 8. 

With the small end from you, place the E point at the junction of 
1 and 8, and draw line 9 to C. 

3. With the J point face down, at F draw line 10 to the junctions 
of 1, 8 and 9. With the J point at C, draw line n to G. In the 
same manner draw line 12 from D to H. 

4. With the face up, place the K point at dot H and draw line 13 
to dot K. Place the K point at dot G, and draw line 14 to L. 
Draw line 15 in the same manner, from dot F to M. 

5. Tracing sleeve. Trace lines 8, 10, 15, 6, 4 and 13. Allow 
seams everywhere. 

6. Replace draft. Trace 9, 10, 11, 4, 14, 15 and 6. Allow seams 
everywhete. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting 



DRAFTING COLLAR. 

i. Draw line i half inch from edge of paper. Make dot A on line 
i i in. more than half of Neck measure, below the end of line i. 
Draw line 2 from dot A square across the paper. Make dot B on 
line 2 % of an in. from dot 1. Make dot C on line 2 2% ins. to dot 
A. Make dot D on line 1 1 in. more than half the Neck measure 
below dot A. 

2. With the straight of square on dot B, and the squa e corner on 
dot D, draw line 3 from dot D. Make dot E on line 3 i; 2 ins. from 
dot D. With the long end from you place the short end of square 
on dot B, and the square corner at the end of line 1, and draw line 4 
from the end of line 1. Make dot F on line 41^ ins. from the end 
of line 1. 

3. With the curvature face down, place the R point at dot E and 
draw line 5 from dot C. Draw line 6 in the same manner. Face up 
the R point at dot F and draw line 7 from C to F. Draw line 8 in 
the same manner. 

VARIATIONS. 

1. Where party does not wear her bustle very high the Back need 
swaying in the center at Waist. To do this, make a dot on line 1 y 2 
in. below line 4, and draw a line to the junctions of lines 6 and 4, 
and use this line for Waist line. 

2. To divide up the Hip line 25 must never be over 2 ins. outside 
of line 8, 6 ins. below the Waist line. If it goes more than 2 ins. 
make a new dot 2 ins. and draw line 25 to this dot. Now measure 
the distance between these 2 dots and divide this amount in 3 equal 
parts and add t part to the Back and 2 parts to the Back Side-body 
6 ins. below Waist line. 

3. When Waist measure is 27 or more the Back should be i}4 ins. 
wide, and if more than 30 ins. 2j4 ins. wide. 

4. When a lady is round shouldered or stooped the Dart between 
the Back and Side-body should be 1 in. 

5. When Waist is 28 ins. or more the space from the hem to Front 



Dart should be 2 ins., and the space between darts 1 



VARIATIONS IN DRAFTING SLEEVE. 

1. For fleshy Arms, take a measure round Arm, half way between 
Shoulder and Elbow, then straighten lines 11 and 12, until the width 
of sleeve corresponds wtth measure ; for extremely large Arms, lines 
11 and 12 may have to be curved the opposite way. 

2. If "Arms' Eye Measure" is 15 ins. or more, dot B should be 
made 2}( ins. below line 2. 

3. If "Arm Measure" is 23 ins. or more, dot F should be made 
2 Va ins. from dot E. 



10 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 




BIAS DART. 

i. Draft Front as usual till you have drawn line 7. Now locate 
the width of under gore as usual, draw line 1 1 across the dot on line 
7. Make a dot on line n, 2 ins. from the junctions of lines 11 and 
7. Now with square corner at this dot and short Arm of square from 
you, make a dot on line 11 according to Arms' Eye measure, using 
small Arm Eye figures. Now draw lines 8 and 9 as shown in cut, 
and finish draft till you have drawn lines 13 and 14. Now draw 
lines 16, 17, 18, 20, 21 and 22. Now make a dot on line 11, 2 ins. 
from Back dart, and a dot 4 ins. from line 13, 12 ins. below line n, 
and draw lines 15 and 19 as shown in cut. Now finish lines 23, 24 
and 26 as usual, line 25 is 2 ins. more than y 2 of Hip measure instead 
of 2 ins. less. 



NOTICE. 

If a pupil understands everything taught so far, she understands 
the principle of the System, and should be able to draft all kinds of 
garments, as they are merely variations from the principle. I insist 
on teachers to teach this far thoroughly, and any one not doing so 
should be reported to me at once, as I wish no one to have my sys- 
tem unless they understand its use. 

PROF. D. I. LEVIS. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 



// 




DRAFTING TAILOR CUT GARMENTS. 



BACK. 






Draft Lesson i till you make line 4. Now place the square cor- 
ner at junctions of lines 1 and 4 as usual. Now make a dot }4 in. 
another 2 ins., another 2j4 ins. and another 2 ins. more than Waist 
measure, using back Waist figures. Now draw line 5 2 ins. more 
than width of Back and draw line 6, 7 and 8 as usual. Make a dot 
on line 6 }4 in. below the junction of lines 5 and 6, place Arms' Eye 
measure in Front Arm, shape at this Dot, and draw line 9 up to the 
lowest end of line 8. Make a dot on line 9, y 2 in. above the O point. 
Now draw lines 10 and 1 1. Now make dot on line 1, 6 ins. below lines 
1 and 4. Place the square corner at this dot with short end square 
towards you and make a dot 2 ins. inside of line 1. Make another 
lYz ins. more than Waist measure using back Waist figures. Draw 
lines 12, 13 and 14, draw line 15 with P point of curvature. 






12 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting 




TAILOR CUT. 

FRONT. 

Draft Lesson 3 till 6 and 7 as usual, except lines 6 and 7, which 
are 2 ins. less than the width of Front measure. Now draw lines 9, 
10, 11 and 12. Now measure for darts as before putting amount of 
darts in 1 or 2 darts as desired, if 1 dart is used make 2, % from the 
hem and draw lines 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, as shown in cut. Now 
measure Hip as usual, only make dot for line 18, % of Hip instead 
of 2 ins. less, and finish draft as shown in cut. 



DRAFTING TWO UNDER ARM GORES. 

FOR LARGE LADIES. 

i. The Back and Back Side-body are the same as usual. 

2. Draft Front the same as usual until you have drawn lines 6 
and 7. Now place the square corner at the end of line 6 and make 
a dot 3 measures more than Arms' Eye Measure, using small Arms' 
Eye Figures. Make a dot on line 7 in the same manner. Now finish 
drafting as usual. Now make a dot on line 6 and 7 ^ way between 
lines 8 and 9, and draw a line square across these to dots. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 



*3 



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DRAFTING SKIRT. 



FRONT. 



Skirt is drafted on lining. Double Front should be drafted on 
fold. 

r. Line i is i in. from top of lining, line 2 is 6 ins. below line 1. 
Line 3 is 2^ ins. from edge of lining and drawn as shown in cut. 
Make a dot % in. each side of line 3. Lines 4 and 5 are drawn with 
curvatures and Y point. Make a dot on line 1 ^ of Waist measure. 
Make a dot on line 2, 1 in. more than ^ of Waist measure- Draw 
line 6 as shown in cut to length of Front Skirt below line 1. Make 
a dot on edge of lining the Front Skirt measure below line 1. Draw 
line 7 as shown in cut. Make a dot on line 1 y 2 in. inside of line 6, 
and draw line 8 as shown in cut. 



H 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 




SIDE GORE. 



Draw lines i and 2 as in Front. Make a dot on line 1 1 in. more 
than y± of Waist from edge of lining, make a dot on line 2 2 ins. 
more than T /\ °f Waist. Draw line 3 as shown iu cut to length of 
Front Skirt. Make a dot on edge of ,ining Front Skirt measure be- 
low line 1, and draw line 4 as shown in cut. Make a dot on line 1 
y 2 in. from edge of lining, another half way between edge of lining 
and line 3, draw line 5 as shown in cut. Make a dot 1 inch on each 
side of line 5. With curvatures draw lines 6, 7 and 8 as shown in 
cut. For back of skirt add plain width 25 to 35 ins. wide. 



Parisian Tailor System of Dress Cutting. 75 



10/2 11 



Bust, 36 37 Hip, 44 46 

Waist, 24 26 Width of Back, 6^ 7^ 

Neck, 12 13 Width of Front, \\% 11^ 

Shoulder, 6 6 Arm to Elbow, 14 14^' 

Arms 1 Eye, 11 12 Arm, 22 22^ 

Back, 16 16 Elbow, 

Front, 18^ 18^ Hand, 

Under Arm, 8 7^ 

CLOSE FITTING CLOAKS. 

Before commencing to draft a cloak add to your measure as shown 
above, then draft as usual. For a Waist measuring 24 ins. or less 
use Tailor cut. But for larger Waist measure use regular draft. 

FOR LOOSE FITTING CLOAKS. 

Add 3 ins. to Waist measure and draft as usual, either Regular Cut 
or Tailor Cut — use Tailor Cut for less than 25 in. Waist. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED GARMENTS. 

Make your drafting 5 ins. from edge of paper. After you have 
made draft, draw a line 2 ins. from edge of paper and bring line 1 to 
this line. Use this line for them. 



DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN. 

Use Tailor Cut, omitting the Bust Swell, and the Hip curves must 
be straightened. 

TO CARRY DOWN SKIRT. 

For Princess or Wrapper run down line 1 the Front skirt measure 
below line 11, and line 24 ^ in. more, then draw a line square across 
these two lines. Now run lines 23 and 25 down in the same manner 
as line 24 and a line across these two lines. Now run lines 14, 15, 
13 in Back down in the same manner and line 12 1 in. longer, draw 
a line from 14 to 15 and a line from 12 to 13. 



l6 Parisian Tailor System of l)ress Cutting. 



A PROFITABLE BUSINESS. 

We respectfully call your attention to the fact that we 
now offer you a business in the sale of the Parisian 
Tailor System that will afford both pleasant and profit- 
able employment to thousands of ladies and' gentlemen 
in this country. 

The Parisian System of Dress Cutting is an article of 
unquestionable merit that makes it saleable, and all that 
is needed is push and energy to make a success. 

Send for terms to agents and see for yourself how 
easily you can make from $100 to $300 per month. 

Address all communications to 

Prof. D. I. LEVIS, 

tiy High st., 

CHICAGO, ILL 



* 



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